A Travellerspoint blog

May 2012

Chapter fifty three - Bukit Lawang

I have been lugging how much around in these backpacks, miss a zero and you're screwed and did you know it rains quite a bit in the rainforest?

rain 26 °C

Day 200: Bukit Lawang, Sumatra, Indonesia 16/04/2012

Up nice and early and a quick breakfast at the Chinese cafe sees me go healthy with the muesli and toast option. Bagel for Gem. How civilised. Get a nice early sweat on walking with the bags to the bus station. Check in at the airport easy enough, but surprise surprise the bags are too heavy at 43kg. A nice extra charge to set Indonesia rolling...Easy flight and land in Indonesia for around midday.

Get some cash out (more on this later) and treat ourselves to that most traditional and archetypal Indonesian dinner, the humble KFC. We then manage to catch the correct minibus for the bus terminal and on our way to the rainforest we calculate that I have indeed taken out about thirty quid, not the intended wedge I thought I had on me. Turns out I missed a zero off the 'amount required' at the ATM (there are over 14,000 Rupiah to the pound). Bus stops for a while in a small town and I run to try to get cash from the cashpoint. It seems that no cashpoints in the area accept either Visa or Mastercard and the joy of a three mile jog in the tropical rain leaves me feeling a little damp in both spirit and body. Oh well, a nice clammy journey to the rainforest awaits.

We arrive in Bukit Lawang for around 6pm and also the start of the most incredibly vicious and torrential tropical thunderstorm I have ever witnessed. 'Welcome to the jungle' we are told as we climb into what can only be described as a pram attached to a moped with a small plastic sheet over for rainproofing with all our stuff, which then proceeds to break down after two minutes. It turns out that incredibly the driver forgot that he needed to put petrol in it to keep it running. We arrive in the village after dark, soaked but feeling flush with well over twenty pounds sterling worth of Indonesian Rupiah in my pocket to last the next few days. Needless to say there is no ATM helpfully sunk into the trunk of a massive tree. We eventually flop into a nice three pound room for the night attempt to dry out and congratulate ourselves on a successful few hours in Indonesia.

Day 201: Bukit Lawang, Sumatra, Indonesia 17/04/2012

Despite the jungle party happening outside our door we sleep pretty well and wake up to a good breakfast. We look for an internet cafe (a surprisingly good choice of them given the surroundings) and sort out a ticket into the National Park to see the orangutans. Also manage to change our remaining Malaysian currency so at least we now have [i]some[i] cash.

After watching the entertaining monkeys (they never get boring) in the trees we head back for our raincoats (more clouds a-brewing) and try to find the orangutan area. Eventually find the canoe needed to cross the river and after some uncertainty as to whether the feeding would go ahead due to the impending weather we find ourselves climbing the slick, steep sides of the heavily forested mountain and before long we find ourselves face to face with a mother orangutan with her baby. Such huge, magnificent, graceful creatures and though the park rangers understandably want the animals to keep a safe distance from us, we end up very close to them. Before long a huge male orangutan arrives on the scene hungry for bananas and posing for our photos like an experienced supermodel. He is absolutely massive, weighs one and a half me's and has a very shaggy auburn coat, with the face of an old man.

One of the orangutans is not satisfied with the rations given by the rangers and takes it upon herself to grab a ranger's rucksack (full of fruit of course) and scurry up the nearest tree into the canopy with it, surely never to be seen again! All in all an amazing, unforgettable experience in the jungle and at about three/four pounds for the experience a bargain to boot! Upon crossing the river back and taking off our muddy footwear I discover I have been bitten by a leech and bled everywhere. Eat well and sleep dreaming of Harry and the Hendersons for some reason...

Posted by tevs 02:26 Archived in Indonesia Tagged rain rainforest indonesia orangutan buki_lawang Comments (0)

Chapter fifty two - Penang

overcast 28 °C

Day 195: Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia 11/04/2012

Another early morning start (you must all be feeling so sorry for us!) as we wait for our 6am minibus pick up to take us on to Malaysia, the fifth country of our trip so far. So, the bus stops after about ten minutes to pick up some more passengers we think. Wrong. The driver it appears has forgotten to feed his dog and we all watch as he dishes out some Pedigree Chum for his furry friend. Eventually get going and before long we are at Hat Yai, the last big town the Thai side of the border. Here we buy a ticket onto Penang, which works out cheaper than it would if we had booked direct in Krabi, so happy days.

The drive to the border is completely stress free and it must be said that this border is approximately one million times nicer and easy than the positively evil Poipet Thailand-Cambodia border mentioned earlier in the blog. There's even a KFC here, which speaks volumes for the place...Through customs and immigration problem free, the complimentary 90 day visa is a more than welcome addition to the pages of the passport. In a fashion similar to crossing the border into the West Midlands on the M42, the heavens open as soon as we step onto Malaysian soil. Back in the minibus and the eyelids start to feel a bit heavy...

Wake up somewhere over the bridge into Penang, where impressive views of the waterfront and the cluster of high rise buildings that adorn it. Eventually arrive and look for a decent room, which is easier said than done as the standard of accommodation here is pretty poor. However, we eventually find a good room and upon checking in and getting online discover that there is a tsunami alert in place for the region, including Penang. Krabi has even been evacuated, so if we had stayed just a few hours longer we might have had to flee. Cue reassuring emails home that we are safe, to the mostly oblivious relatives back home!

Head for food after this bit of excitement and end up getting Tandoori chicken (well received by moi and moi only). There is a real interesting ethnic mix about the place, with big Malay, Indian and Chinese influences obvious. There are also a hearty mix of prostitutes and ladyboys patrolling our street.

Day 196: Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia 12/04/2012

A good night's sleep (especially after the tsunami alert was lifted, phew) sees us up and about and ready for action. Shower (shared bathroom is fine) and head for breakfast. Ok, this is lunchtime really and we find a Chinese place that does very good Hokkien chicken rice at unbelievably cheap prices. Hench Chinese man serves us. See him eating raw eggs at the table opposite. New man crush.

Take a stroll and come across a very sleek, modern, air conditioned shopping mall. Not cheap. We catch the bus from the bus terminal stationed at the mall and take a visit to the Kek Lok Si Temple, an absolutely incredible Chinese Buddhist temple at the top of a pretty steep hill. There are ornate carvings and gold Buddhas galore and a 30.2 metre high (at a guess) bronze statue of a Chinese Buddhist figure. Some great city views from the top of the temple, reached by a crazy cable car. There is also a sacred pond with thousands of turtles captive in it. Reminders of the crocodile farm in Siem Reap.

We take the bus back (not to where we meant to go however) and stumble across Little India, an incredible bakery and lots of quirky, interesting places besides. I must take this opportunity to thank the Penang tourist board for pointing out and advertising the presence of an incredible aquarium/pet shop, where there is every manner of animal and fish available for sale, including snakes, frogs, puppies, spiders and of course raccoons. Almost like a trip to the zoo.

We grab dinner on the street and sit with a woman who has found herself now making up part of the crew of a yacht destined for Darwin. What a way to get about and sustain the travels! Then buy some chocolate covered peanuts, wondering why both Gemma and the guy in 7/11 are howling with laughter as I buy them. Only after leaving the shop do I see they are called 'Nips'.

Day 197: Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia 13/04/2012

Another lie in this morning and we are ready for another lunchy/breakfasty type meal. Find the ideal place in a nice looking cafe, where Gem's BBQ beef noodles and my soup, omelette, prawns and spinach with rice comes to about three quid. Thinking of going to Ipoh tomorrow so we go and price up the bus tickets. Mooch around the bus offices, into the mall and spy the cinema. Find myself in perhaps the most embarassing spot of con artistry/hustling as I go to the shop to get change for the bus, where a sweet little old lady, with shaved head and mullet provides me with five screwed up one Ringgit in exchange for my crisp ten. No, granny no. 'Will you take seven?' No. She hands back my money and proceeds to give me some verbal before plodding off to find someone else to rip off. Unbelievable.

ASBO nan causes a forty minute wait for the bus (we missed the first one as a result of her cheek) and we find the reclining Buddha we had read about. After a bus journey with an annoying posh British family, we arrive at the temple to find it is Songkran (South East Asian New Year) traditionally celebrated with water fights. Cue a soaking outside the entrance to the temple. More amazing however, was the hundreds of pissed up revellers raving in the temple grounds with the monks. We are absolutely soaked and refused entry to the Big Buddha and have to make do with photos from the entrance.

We walk back and dry off via the waterfront and millionaire's row. Not bad. Another street meal for tea and we head off to the cinema to see Battleship, which is surprisingly good. Another action packed day.

Day 198: Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia 14/04/2012

Lazy morning for a change then lunch then a packet of Nips (still funny). We decide to visit the botanical gardens and wait a considerable while for the right bus. Doesn't turn up before we leave. Instead, we head back to the room to decide where to go next, with Indonesia prevailing as the winner. An internet cafe session reveals a poor skype connection and the revelation that the ferry to Indonesia no longer runs from Penang. Find flights (which are actually cheaper than the ferry would have been).

We have a walk around and discover that Little India provides some reminiscence of our time in India, though scaled down in terms of noise, people and chaos by some one billion percent. Stumble across a big park, where families are enjoying their Saturday evenings and enjoy dinner at the same stall as last night. A huge fish noodle soup (intended for a family of four I would say) finds its way in front of me...

Get back on skype and after four computers and three venues the technical issues are ironed out and we even find ourselves watching a skype broadcast of the Grand National, direct from the Cribbin living room.

Day 199: Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia 15/04/2012

Jet lag (one hour's difference to Thailand) sees us up late again and we have an early lunch and a walk around. Try again for the bus to the botanical gardens and again discover we are too impatient to wait. We find ourselves in the park we discovered yesterday and sit with an ice cream watching some kids play football. Then a quick stroll around the waterfront, Fort Cornwallis and Penang State Museum (we sound so cultured!).

A brief stop back at the room before dinner at a hawker stall food court, where our drinks are served by a portly five year old boy. Being presented one plate of noodles instead of two by the old man cooking prompts a comedy conversation. 'You want one more?'. 'Yes, please but no prawns.' 'Pork and prawn?'. 'No, just pork please.' 'No pork?' 'No, no prawns.' 'No prawns?' (looks at me like I am crazy). 'No prawns.' 'Ok'.

Posted by tevs 01:10 Archived in Malaysia Tagged food culture buddha penang georgetown Comments (0)

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