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Chapter fifty two - Penang

overcast 28 °C

Day 195: Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia 11/04/2012

Another early morning start (you must all be feeling so sorry for us!) as we wait for our 6am minibus pick up to take us on to Malaysia, the fifth country of our trip so far. So, the bus stops after about ten minutes to pick up some more passengers we think. Wrong. The driver it appears has forgotten to feed his dog and we all watch as he dishes out some Pedigree Chum for his furry friend. Eventually get going and before long we are at Hat Yai, the last big town the Thai side of the border. Here we buy a ticket onto Penang, which works out cheaper than it would if we had booked direct in Krabi, so happy days.

The drive to the border is completely stress free and it must be said that this border is approximately one million times nicer and easy than the positively evil Poipet Thailand-Cambodia border mentioned earlier in the blog. There's even a KFC here, which speaks volumes for the place...Through customs and immigration problem free, the complimentary 90 day visa is a more than welcome addition to the pages of the passport. In a fashion similar to crossing the border into the West Midlands on the M42, the heavens open as soon as we step onto Malaysian soil. Back in the minibus and the eyelids start to feel a bit heavy...

Wake up somewhere over the bridge into Penang, where impressive views of the waterfront and the cluster of high rise buildings that adorn it. Eventually arrive and look for a decent room, which is easier said than done as the standard of accommodation here is pretty poor. However, we eventually find a good room and upon checking in and getting online discover that there is a tsunami alert in place for the region, including Penang. Krabi has even been evacuated, so if we had stayed just a few hours longer we might have had to flee. Cue reassuring emails home that we are safe, to the mostly oblivious relatives back home!

Head for food after this bit of excitement and end up getting Tandoori chicken (well received by moi and moi only). There is a real interesting ethnic mix about the place, with big Malay, Indian and Chinese influences obvious. There are also a hearty mix of prostitutes and ladyboys patrolling our street.

Day 196: Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia 12/04/2012

A good night's sleep (especially after the tsunami alert was lifted, phew) sees us up and about and ready for action. Shower (shared bathroom is fine) and head for breakfast. Ok, this is lunchtime really and we find a Chinese place that does very good Hokkien chicken rice at unbelievably cheap prices. Hench Chinese man serves us. See him eating raw eggs at the table opposite. New man crush.

Take a stroll and come across a very sleek, modern, air conditioned shopping mall. Not cheap. We catch the bus from the bus terminal stationed at the mall and take a visit to the Kek Lok Si Temple, an absolutely incredible Chinese Buddhist temple at the top of a pretty steep hill. There are ornate carvings and gold Buddhas galore and a 30.2 metre high (at a guess) bronze statue of a Chinese Buddhist figure. Some great city views from the top of the temple, reached by a crazy cable car. There is also a sacred pond with thousands of turtles captive in it. Reminders of the crocodile farm in Siem Reap.

We take the bus back (not to where we meant to go however) and stumble across Little India, an incredible bakery and lots of quirky, interesting places besides. I must take this opportunity to thank the Penang tourist board for pointing out and advertising the presence of an incredible aquarium/pet shop, where there is every manner of animal and fish available for sale, including snakes, frogs, puppies, spiders and of course raccoons. Almost like a trip to the zoo.

We grab dinner on the street and sit with a woman who has found herself now making up part of the crew of a yacht destined for Darwin. What a way to get about and sustain the travels! Then buy some chocolate covered peanuts, wondering why both Gemma and the guy in 7/11 are howling with laughter as I buy them. Only after leaving the shop do I see they are called 'Nips'.

Day 197: Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia 13/04/2012

Another lie in this morning and we are ready for another lunchy/breakfasty type meal. Find the ideal place in a nice looking cafe, where Gem's BBQ beef noodles and my soup, omelette, prawns and spinach with rice comes to about three quid. Thinking of going to Ipoh tomorrow so we go and price up the bus tickets. Mooch around the bus offices, into the mall and spy the cinema. Find myself in perhaps the most embarassing spot of con artistry/hustling as I go to the shop to get change for the bus, where a sweet little old lady, with shaved head and mullet provides me with five screwed up one Ringgit in exchange for my crisp ten. No, granny no. 'Will you take seven?' No. She hands back my money and proceeds to give me some verbal before plodding off to find someone else to rip off. Unbelievable.

ASBO nan causes a forty minute wait for the bus (we missed the first one as a result of her cheek) and we find the reclining Buddha we had read about. After a bus journey with an annoying posh British family, we arrive at the temple to find it is Songkran (South East Asian New Year) traditionally celebrated with water fights. Cue a soaking outside the entrance to the temple. More amazing however, was the hundreds of pissed up revellers raving in the temple grounds with the monks. We are absolutely soaked and refused entry to the Big Buddha and have to make do with photos from the entrance.

We walk back and dry off via the waterfront and millionaire's row. Not bad. Another street meal for tea and we head off to the cinema to see Battleship, which is surprisingly good. Another action packed day.

Day 198: Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia 14/04/2012

Lazy morning for a change then lunch then a packet of Nips (still funny). We decide to visit the botanical gardens and wait a considerable while for the right bus. Doesn't turn up before we leave. Instead, we head back to the room to decide where to go next, with Indonesia prevailing as the winner. An internet cafe session reveals a poor skype connection and the revelation that the ferry to Indonesia no longer runs from Penang. Find flights (which are actually cheaper than the ferry would have been).

We have a walk around and discover that Little India provides some reminiscence of our time in India, though scaled down in terms of noise, people and chaos by some one billion percent. Stumble across a big park, where families are enjoying their Saturday evenings and enjoy dinner at the same stall as last night. A huge fish noodle soup (intended for a family of four I would say) finds its way in front of me...

Get back on skype and after four computers and three venues the technical issues are ironed out and we even find ourselves watching a skype broadcast of the Grand National, direct from the Cribbin living room.

Day 199: Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia 15/04/2012

Jet lag (one hour's difference to Thailand) sees us up late again and we have an early lunch and a walk around. Try again for the bus to the botanical gardens and again discover we are too impatient to wait. We find ourselves in the park we discovered yesterday and sit with an ice cream watching some kids play football. Then a quick stroll around the waterfront, Fort Cornwallis and Penang State Museum (we sound so cultured!).

A brief stop back at the room before dinner at a hawker stall food court, where our drinks are served by a portly five year old boy. Being presented one plate of noodles instead of two by the old man cooking prompts a comedy conversation. 'You want one more?'. 'Yes, please but no prawns.' 'Pork and prawn?'. 'No, just pork please.' 'No pork?' 'No, no prawns.' 'No prawns?' (looks at me like I am crazy). 'No prawns.' 'Ok'.

Posted by tevs 01:10 Archived in Malaysia Tagged food culture buddha penang georgetown Comments (0)

Chapter thirty four - Kandy

sunny 28 °C

Day 131: Kandy, Sri Lanka 08/02/2012

Get up and go early doors. Being sat idle this close to the beach is killing us as we wait for our skin to recover fully. Pick up some breakfast from the bakers and catch the bus back to Colombo. This is quite busy and despite a minor (major) panic when our bags 'disappear' (the conductor has put them in the boot) and our shoulders are squashed together by other passengers, we have a fairly easy journey back to the capital. We are then straight onto another uncomfortable vehicle for the journey to Kandy (4 hours) and arrive more than ready to stretch our legs.

Tuk-tuk from the bus station to one of the cheaper hotels in the Rough Guide. More expensive than anticipated for a pretty basic room so we hunt about. It seems the prices have all gone up since the book was printed. Eventually go back to the first room.

We go for a walk and have a quality evening. We find the Kandy Garden Club as described in the book and have a quality tea of devilled chicken and prawn and fried rice and noodles, which comes to about 4 quid with drinks. We then head next door into their bar area, which is basically a working men's club thrown back to the 1960's (I would imagine). We have good cheap beer (rum for Gemma) and a game of snooker in their billiards room, where the return of Tommy O'Sullivan occurs and a high quality tactical battle occurs. Of who can go the longest without potting a ball.

We take the wrong turning on the way home and are chased by some dogs before finding our way back and being welcomed by a giant cockroach in the bathroom (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R28-wB9RINg).

Day 132: Kandy, Sri Lanka 09/02/2012

Well, a great day had in the sweetest city I can name...

Woke up, had a rip off breakfast of banana pancakes and briefly go online to see the clown Capello has walked. We head out and walk towards the city centre, taking the route around the lake, where we see some big fish, a snake and some water monitor lizards, big, scary, prehistoric looking smelly reptiles. Creepy.

We set our sights on walking up to the huge Buddha statue that sits at the top of a big hill here in Kandy and first have a walk through the city centre. There is a fun second hand market and some clothes stalls (I buy a fake Reebok skin to surf in - turns out to be about twenty sizes too small for me). We make our way up the steep hill to see the Buddha statue (turns out to be a temple) in the midday sun, the hill being at about a 45 degree angle, making for a hot, tiring journey. It is definitely worth it, with some outstanding views of the city below us.

A tout joins us for our walk home, getting mad when we decline his kind offers ('why you waste my time?'). Another trip to the Kandy Garden Club tonight, but the Crucible impressions are not repeated.

Posted by tevs 05:10 Archived in Sri Lanka Tagged temples hills buddha sri_lanka kandy Comments (0)

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